Celler Pardas Sumoll Rosado 2020
Producer: Celler Pardas
Region: Penedès, Spain
Celler Pardas started when two growers from Penedès, Ramon Parera and Jordi Arnan, acquired an old estate called Can Comas in Alt Penedès, close to Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. The property surrounds an old medieval farm and spans 30 hectares of forest and other crops (mainly cereal) as well as the local grape varieties—Sumoll and Xarel-lo—that Ramon and Jordi planted for their wines. The other source of fruit for the wines come from two ancient plots further north, where they own old vines of Sumoll, Xarel-lo and Malvasía de Sitges; Ramon calls this fascinating local strain of Malvasía, an incredibly acidic grape notoriously difficult to vinify, the “Riesling of the Mediterranean”.
They manage the forest surrounding the vineyards as well as the land bordering them to create a whole agrarian ecosystem. The vines are dry-farmed, and the clay-limestone rich soils are left unploughed to better cultivate the subterranean mycorrhizal pipulations. Ground vegetation is carefully chosen to contribute nutrients to the soil, and no synthetic products nor pesticides are utilized.
The story of native grapes in Penedès is much the same of those globally: local varieties, deemed hard to work and less valuable than internationally known varietals, slowly phased out of cultivation. Perera and Arnan's plantings all come from cuttings of old vines found in the region. Thiers is a quest to undo the market-driven hierarchy of grape cultivation, paving the way for narratives of authentic cultural authenticity.
The work in the cellar is as respectful to the wines as their work on the vineyards is to the land. Fermentations are spontaneous, and the the wines are never clarified nor ammended. Sumoll is not an easy grape to master—“the most masochistic grape there is”, says Jordi— but as their Rosat shows, Parera and Arnan have conquered its rusticity and are making a delicate, fresh, and immediate wine.